95 Points James Halliday | Freshness and Poise in Margaret River Cabernet

My Wine Man on Vasse Felix

Vasse Felix is one of the defining names of Margaret River Cabernet, a producer whose appeal rests on the balance between fruit, savoury detail and structure. This is Cabernet for the dinner table as much as the cellar: expressive without needing to overwhelm, and distinctive for its freshness as well as its depth.

The 2017 shows the more lively, finely poised side of that identity. Cabernet Sauvignon supplies the core, with Malbec and Petit Verdot adding extra dimensions. Rather than putting oak or sheer weight first, the wine lets its red-fruited character and refreshing acidity lead.

Tasting Notes

Raspberries and currants lead, with a cranberry tang bringing a bright, mouthwatering edge. Menthol adds an aromatic lift, while oak remains a supporting note rather than dominating the fruit. The palate is lively and refreshing, shaped by fine, poised tannins and acidity that gives the wine its momentum. Malbec and Petit Verdot lend extra interest to an elegant, energetic Cabernet finish. 95 Points, James Halliday.

Style & Drinking Window

Medium- to full-bodied, fresh and finely structured, with poised tannins rather than heavy extraction. Our suggested drinking window is 2026–2033, depending on storage and your preference for fruit or mature savoury complexity. Start with a gentle 30–60 minute decant, tasting as it opens, and serve at 16–18°C. Choose this vintage for lift and elegance; choose the 2018 for greater density and power.

Food Pairing

The bright raspberry and currant fruit, refreshing acidity and fine tannins of the 2017 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon make it an elegant match for Australian Frozen Grass-Fed Cape Grim Rib-Eye Steak from My Meat Man. The wine's cranberry freshness balances the rib-eye's rich, juicy texture, while its menthol lift and subtle oak complement the savoury character of a well-browned crust beautifully, whether pan-seared with thyme, charcoal-grilled, or reverse-seared and finished in a hot skillet. A simple seasoning of salt and pepper lets the fruit and beef take centre stage.

Why This Is a Smart Buy

At HK$229, this offers a 95-point Halliday-rated Margaret River Cabernet with the benefit of time since vintage. Its appeal is not just the score: lively fruit, fine tannins and restrained oak make it a versatile dinner wine, particularly for drinkers who prefer freshness and balance to sheer weight. A considered choice for an elegant steak-night bottle.

Looking for a Different Style?

2016 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon — focused cassis and firmer tannins, with classic Margaret River precision.

2017 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon — cedar, cassis and a refined, classically structured profile.

2021 Greenock Creek Cabernet Sauvignon — a richer Barossa expression with opulent dark fruit and structured depth.