96 Points, James Halliday | High-Altitude Beechworth Chardonnay with Depth and Precision

My Wine Man on A. Rodda

Adrian Rodda's strength is Chardonnay that brings intensity and poise together. In Smith's Vineyard, that balance has a distinctive setting: a Beechworth site at around 550 metres, whose fruit intensity and granitic mineral character give the wine both presence and direction.

What draws us to this 2024 is the detail beneath that concentration. Citrus peel and stone fruit meet fine texture, biscuity oak and a developing nutty complexity, without losing the lively acidity that keeps everything in focus. This is a Chardonnay for drinkers who want depth without heaviness, and a bottle worth giving time in the glass rather than rushing through straight from the fridge.

Tasting Notes

Lifted aromas of lemon pith, grapefruit peel, nectarine and quince are layered with biscuity oak and spice. The palate combines deep citrus and stone-fruit flavours with a smooth texture and lively acid drive. A fine mineral thread gives definition, while mealy, nutty complexity builds through the lingering finish. The impression is concentrated yet composed, with freshness running through every layer.

96 points, James Halliday.

Style & Drinking Window

A dry, medium- to full-bodied Chardonnay with finely layered texture, bright acidity and a poised oak influence rather than pronounced tannin. Our suggested drinking window is 2026–2032, enjoying its citrus energy now or allowing time for more savoury, nutty detail to emerge under good cellaring conditions.

Serve at around 11–13°C so its texture and complexity can open up. A brief 20–30-minute decant is worth considering if it feels tightly wound on opening; otherwise, let it unfold gradually in a generous white-wine glass.

Food Pairing

The citrus drive, smooth texture and biscuity, nutty depth of the 2024 A. Rodda Smith's Vineyard Chardonnay make it an intriguing white-wine match for Australian Frozen Grass-Fed Cape Grim Rump Steak 500g from My Meat Man. The wine's grapefruit and lemon-pith flavours bring freshness alongside the rump's firm, beefy character, while its savoury oak and nutty complexity complement a golden sear and a little browned butter beautifully, whether pan-seared and butter-basted with thyme, gently grilled and finished with herb butter, or seared then briefly oven-finished.

Keep the crust golden rather than heavily charred, slice the rested steak across the grain, and favour restrained garlic, herbs and butter over a sweet barbecue glaze or powerful pepper sauce. This is a pairing built around the wine's texture and savoury detail, offering a thoughtful alternative to the usual red with steak.

Why This Is a Smart Buy

At HK$585, this is a considered purchase for Chardonnay lovers who value vineyard character, concentration and finesse. The appeal is not simply the 96-point recognition: it is the combination of high-altitude Beechworth fruit, mineral definition and layered citrus, biscuit and nut flavours that makes the bottle rewarding.

Choose it for a dinner where the white wine deserves as much attention as the food, or to explore how a textured Chardonnay can work beyond the familiar fish-and-chicken pairings. Its lively structure also gives you the option of enjoying it now or following its development over the next few years.

Looking for a Different Style?

• 2023 Leeuwin Estate Prelude Chardonnay – A lighter Margaret River expression with lemon blossom, citrus zest and fine lees texture.
• 2023 Giant Steps Yarra Valley Chardonnay – An approachable, medium-bodied style with white peach, nectarine and a gentle creamy thread.
• 2023 Cloudy Bay Marlborough Chardonnay – Concentrated Marlborough stone fruit, vibrant citrus and subtle savoury oak.