95pts James Halliday — A Wild-Fermented Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc That Rewrites the Rules of the Variety

My Wine Man on Vasse Felix

Vasse Felix is Margaret River's founding estate — the first winery planted in the region in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity, whose pioneering vision helped establish what is now one of Australia's most celebrated wine regions. Over five decades later, Vasse Felix remains at the forefront of Margaret River winemaking, consistently producing wines of exceptional quality, precision and regional character under the stewardship of Chief Winemaker Virginia Willcock. Their approach to Sauvignon Blanc is anything but conventional: wild fermentation in French oak foudres and puncheons, partial skin contact, and a winemaking philosophy that prioritises structure, texture and complexity over simple aromatic appeal. The result is a Sauvignon Blanc that challenges expectations and rewards those who seek something genuinely different — serious, savoury and completely compelling.

Tasting Notes

Bright pale gold with a focused, precise hue. The nose is restrained and intriguing — an absence of the overt tropical fruit that defines most Sauvignon Blanc, replaced instead by subtle citrus, white stone fruit, fine herbal notes and a savoury, almost Burgundian complexity from the oak and skin contact. On the palate, it's medium-bodied with real structure and shape — phenolics add mouthfeel and texture, while a talc-like, mineral acidity keeps the wine refreshing and precise. The finish is long, complex and moreish: a Sauvignon Blanc that keeps you thinking. 95pts James Halliday.

Style & Drinking Window

Medium-bodied with a structured, savoury profile. Wild fermentation in French oak foudres and puncheons with partial skin contact delivers texture, phenolic shape and genuine complexity — this is as far from a simple, fruit-driven Sauvignon Blanc as you can get. Talc-like acidity keeps the wine fresh and food-friendly. Drinking beautifully now and will continue to develop over the next 2–3 years. Serve at 10–12°C; 15–20 minutes in the glass will open it up. Drinking window: 2024–2027.

Food Pairing

The wild-fermented structure and savoury mineral complexity of the 2021 Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc make it an exceptional match for Atlantic Frozen Wild Ocean Sea Scallops (Sashimi Grade) from My Meat Man. The wine's talc-like acidity and phenolic texture complement the delicate sweetness and silky, oceanic character of sashimi-grade scallops beautifully — whether seared in brown butter with capers, served raw as sashimi with yuzu and sea salt, or lightly grilled with a herb and citrus dressing. The wine's savoury depth also makes it a natural partner for grilled salmon, pan-seared seafood, or an aged cheese board.

Why This Is a Smart Buy

At HK$168, the Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc is exceptional value for a 95-point wine from Margaret River's founding estate. This is not a simple, fruit-driven Sauvignon Blanc — it's a genuinely complex, wild-fermented wine crafted with the same intent and precision as the estate's flagship Chardonnay and Cabernet. Comparable wild-fermented, oak-influenced Sauvignon Blancs with this level of complexity and producer pedigree regularly fetch HK$280–$450+. At HK$168, this is a rare opportunity to drink at this level of winemaking ambition without paying the premium it deserves.

Looking for a Different Style?

2024 Cloudy Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc — New Zealand / iconic / more vibrant and aromatic.
2024 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Sauvignon Blanc — same region / Margaret River / a more aromatic, fruit-forward Margaret River alternative.
2023 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc — New Zealand / wild-fermented / similarly complex and savoury.