2018 Penfolds Grange Bin 95

James Halliday 95 Points

Fruit from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley. It's strange that the Clare Valley, seldom mentioned in the roster of regional contributions, no matter how numerous, comes up as one of three here. Although I have to admit there's a parcel of beautiful Clare Valley shiraz that frequently finds its way into the blend. It's unclear whether Penfolds' assessment of 'Instantly, an assault of piercing VA [volatile acidity]' is in reference to a passing phase or to the deliberate retention of VA, but it's part of Grange. For me, persistent black shoe polish marks the bouquet of this wine. To one side, it's all about unbridled power, and it'll be at least another 8 years before it calms down. There's so much screaming for attention it's distracting, and senses of proportion are lost.

Food and wine pairing

Game and cured meats are excellent accompaniments to this wine.